Home / Ride to Mountain Gorillas | 2026

Ride to Mountain Gorillas | 2026
Chapter 1: Arrival in Cape Town
Chapter 2: Heading North
Chapter 3: Botswana

Ride to Mountain Gorillas | 2026

In 2007/2008 Audrey and I rode from Munich to Cape Town. On the way south we were delayed in Ethiopia as election rioting rocked Kenya. After it was safe for tourists to go through Kenya, we rode through fairly quickly and avoided the west of the country where the violence was the worst. This meant that we were not able to go to Uganda to visit the mountain gorillas. Further south, in Tanzania, we met travellers who had made the trip to see the gorillas and raved about it. We tried to figure out a way to go to see them but couldn’t make it work. We vowed to see them “someday.” Fast forward 18 years and that someday is today.

I am shipping my motorcycle from London to Cape Town and then riding north through South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania and Rwanda to get to Uganda where I have a gorilla trek organised for 15 February. After the trek I’ll ride through Kenya back to Tanzania to do a safari out of Arusha before returning south through Malawi, Mozambique and Zimbabwe to South Africa. From Johannesburg, I hope to catch a flight to Madagascar and then return to Cape Town at the beginning of April. It should be an amazing journey!

Planned route (blue and red) and 2008 tracks (black)

Chapter 1: Arrival in Cape Town

January 9 - 12: Calgary to Cape Town!

I had always known that it was going to be a long journey to Cape Town with an 11-hour layover in Frankfurt followed by a 12-hour flight to Cape Town. The flight to Frankfurt was unexpectedly pleasant. Discover Airlines changed their aircraft the night before my departure. Unfortunately, they changed my chosen (and paid for) seat in Premium Economy to one I didn’t like as much. I mentioned this at check in and was able to change to an aisle seat even though they weren’t allowing people to change seats (it would be chaos if everyone changed their seat). Then just as I was going to the gate, I got a message on my phone that my seat had been changed. Again. I went to the counter and was given a new boarding pass. For business class! Nice! It makes such a difference on an overnight flight to be able to get some sleep, it almost eliminates jet lag.

As soon as I deboarded in Frankfurt (all refreshed from my nap) I went through Immigration and jumped on the S-bahn to downtown Frankfurt. At the Hauptbahnhof I went outside into an icy cold snowy taste of winter to find a currywurst. Obviously. Then a coffee shop to read up on Africa before catching another train back to the airport. A very nice layover indeed. Just as boarding was completed for the 10:00 PM flight to Cape Town the captain came on and announced our flight had to be cancelled. The software that flies the plane was broken. Of course, passengers near me had helpful tips, have you tried rebooting it? How about unplugging it and plugging it back in? But alas we weren't going anywhere. Lufthansa put us up for the night with an expected departure of 1:00 PM the next day. After a good night’s sleep that changed to 5:15 PM so had another day, this time not venturing to downtown. We really did get going at quarter after five, finally arriving in Cape Town at 5:40 AM local time on Monday morning. I had called the hotel and told them I would have a late check in. Very late!

The Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof on a snowy, cold day

I came all this way for "Canadian Streetfood"?

I have never, ever seen currywurst at any Canadian streetfood

In addition to currywurst, Frankfurt is also a financial capital

Downtown Frankfurt

Back at the airport I share a moment with Albert Einstein

After a 7:00 AM check in at the Harbour Bridge Hotel I had a lovely day in Cape Town where I had a chance to meet Michnus and Elsebie at a coffee shop inside a BMW Motorrad shop. It was great to meet them in person. They run a few Facebook forums and make motorcycle soft luggage at Turkana Gear. And to top the day off, I got a message that I can pick up my bike at Econo Trans at 9:30 AM Tuesday! Let the adventure begin.

Good morning Cape Town! As a Standup Paddle Boarder commutes to work on the canal

Walked to the V&A Waterfront

The clock tower at the waterfront

I'll have to pick up this little souvenir when I return from Uganda

The coffee shop inside Donford BMW Motorrad

Hello Elsebie and Michnus!

Sunset over Table Mountain

The Tablecoth on Table Mountain

Good night Cape Town!

January 13: Capetown

Wow, what an easy pick up of the motorcycle. I took an Uber over to Econo Trans at 9:30 where Wayne had me sign some paperwork and pay for processing the bike through Customs (about $750) and then took me out back to the warehouse. My bike was in a nice crate (built by Moto Freight in London) and just needed to be freed. Lennox and a couple of other staff did that and then Lennox helped me put the windshield and mirrors back on. I put my Lefthand Drive sticker in the tankbag and then I was set to ride in South Africa. And what a beautiful ride it was, heading towards Cape Town with Table Mountain as a backdrop. What a great first ride of the season!
Just before riding to Moto Freight back in London I noticed an oil leak from the rear shock. I tightened up the damper adjustment where it was leaking and that seemed to fix it. When picking the bike up in Cape Town it still wasn’t leaking but I wasn’t especially confident in riding all the way to Uganda and back. I rode out to MP Suspension that afternoon for them to have a look at it. Martin was out, so I left the bike at the shop and took an Uber back to the hotel. That evening Jilly and Keith dropped by and we went for a lovely dinner at Miller's Thumb. I can see why Cape Town is a “foodie” destination! Audrey and I had met Jilly and Keith in Namibia in 2008 where they invited us to their place in Cape Town, so it was quite special to reconnect with them. The chapter where we first met: Chapter 19: South Africa - We Did It! and then again at my birthday lunch: Chapter 21: South Africa - To the end of an amazing continent.

Arrived at the Econo Trans offices

Nicely crated bike

Voila!

Lennox helps me to put the mirrors and windshield back on

Woo hoo!

Riding in South Africa!

Riding towards Table Mountain (Keep left, look right. Keep left, look right!)

Iconic Table Mountain

Jumping for joy!

Meeting Jilly and Keith for supper

We met Keith and Jilly in Namibia and then visited them in 2008

At my birthday party, June 11, 2008, in Cape Town at Five Flies

January 14 – 16: Capetown

It has been a lovely few days in Cape Town, meeting friends (new and old), enjoying the perfect (if windy) weather and getting the motorbike sorted for the trip. After getting the leaking rear shock repaired I took a test ride down the coast to Hout Bay and pronounced the bike ready to ride to Uganda. That afternoon I met up with Robin Goode, whom Audrey and I had ridden down a good chunk of Africa with. We had first met at Aswan, Egypt before taking the boat to Wadi Halfa, Sudan back in December 2007. Our paths crossed numerous times and finally said goodbye in Cape Town at my birthday party. It was so good to reconnect, even for a short time. Friday I met up with Keith at a regular breakfast he has with riding buddies and then took some nice backroads to his house for a cup of tea with Jilly. Now it’s time to hit the road!

Heading back to Cape Town after the shock repair. This view never gets old!

Out for a test ride along the coast

Karbonkelberg near Hout Bay

Returning to Cape Town, skirting Table Mountain

The cafe in Donford BMW Motorrad makes a mean chai latte

Meeting up with Robin Goode with whom Audrey and I rode through Africa in 2008

We first met in Egypt before taking the boat to Sudan in December 2007

Robin riding south through Sudan

The Ducati Multistradas were surprisingly reliable

Robin begging for gas

The gang all meets at Jungle Junction in Nairobi

Robin and Matteo at Ekke's birthday party, June 11, 2008

Walking along Roggebaai Canal in Cape Town

Going for a ride with Keith after breakfast

Does look a little like Saskatchewan doesn't it?

Keith's new Honda Transalp

Jilly has promised to make me a bobotie when I return in April

One last blueberry smoothie and the best French fries at Shift Espresso Cafe

Good night Cape Town, see you in April!

Chapter 2: Heading North

January 17: Cape Town to Gordons Bay

On the road! OK, Gordons Bay is only 50 km from Cape Town, but I did take the long way, going over Chapman’s Peak Road to the Cape of Good Hope (almost) and around False Bay. The day had everything from rain to sun and steak & mushroom pie to robots. I rode through Hout Bay to get to the famous Chapman's Peak Drive and through Simon's Town to get to the Cape of Good Hope. As I was riding I saw a house with solar panels on it, since I was southbound I thought it strange that the panels were on the north facing roof. After almost a week in Cape Town it only hit me then that I was in the Southern Hemisphere. It was slow going through either city traffic or Saturday afternoon traffic but eventually I got to the entrance to the park. I was rather taken aback by the 515 rand entrance fee. If I was going to spend the day exploring the park perhaps that would be OK, but I just wanted to recreate a photo from 2008 and didn’t think that was worth $45. I turned around and went back to Simon's Town to the Sweetest Thing Patisserie for lunch of steak & mushroom pie. This and the architecture of Simon's Town really reminded me of New Zealand. Then around False Bay to Gordons Bay for the night. The first day of the ride to Uganda is in the books!

Heading south towards Hout Bay

Hout Bay from Chapman's Peak Drive

It's a fun road

Nordhoek Beach from Chapman's Peak Drive

Robot is South African for traffic signal. Anyone else imagine Bender from Futurama directing traffic?

Simon's Town architecture really reminds me of New Zealand towns

False Bay

515 rand ($45) ?!? I don't think so.

A lot of AC Cobras around. I mean a lot. I saw a group of six of them earlier. I imagine they are rentals.

As recommended by Robin in Simon's Town

A steak and mushroom pie reminds me of New Zealand too

Around the top of False Bay

Drifting sand reminds me of Mauritania

Approaching Gordons Bay

The long way from Cape Town to Gordons Bay

January 18, 19: Gordons Bay to Victoria West

I had planned to ride up to Kimberley from Gordons Bay, crossing the Karoo fairly quickly, with one stop. But a stomach bug made me lose my confidence in being able to manage it, so I broke the ride into three days, stopping in Oudtshoorn and Victoria West. On Sunday I left Gordons Bay and rode the N2 for almost 200 kilometres before turning onto the R324 towards Barrydale. It was a pleasure to get off the busier N2 and onto a smaller road, crossing the Tradouw Pass to Barrydale. Here I stopped in at Diesel & Creme, a cafe suggested by Michnus. It was a very busy place on a beautiful summer Sunday. While the milkshake and hotdog probably weren't good for my stomach bug, they sure were delicious. A few kilometres further through the Klein Karoo was the famous Ronnie's Sex Shop. It was Ronnie's vegetable stand until some friends decided to prank him by adding the word "Sex". Ronnie noticed that business picked up and now it is a must-stop when crossing the Klein Karoo. In Oudtshoorn I had booked a room at the Duckpond Lodge, in the town's suburbs. Richard was the host for this lovely homestay, and it was such a treat to have a pleasant evening conversation with him rather than being in a sterile hotel room by myself. Monday, I rode through De Rust on to Meiringspoort, a nice canyon through the Swartberg mountains. Unfortunately, the drought in this area meant that the famous waterfalls were dry. It was a nice walk to the falls though and the temperatures weren't too high to be walking around in full motorcycle gear either. After stopping for lunch at 4 Sheep deli in Beaufort West (Lamb Sandwich) I continued on to Victoria West and the Victoria Oaks Guesthouse. I arrived fairly early, and my stomach had held out for the day so I probably could have made it to Kimberley, but in situations like this discretion can be the better part of valour.

Good morning Gordons Bay!

Heading over the Houwhoek Pass, leaving Gordons Bay

Across the plains where the orchards are protected from sun and birds

Nice to get off the N2

A family of baboons crosses the road

Stopping by the Diesel & Creme cafe for lunch

A hotdog and a milkshake probably won't do my stomach bug any good, but it sure was delicious

Crossing the Klein Karoo

An institution and a "must stop"

Lots of wide open spaces make for easy riding

Oudtshoorn is famous for its ostrich farms and a great place to buy a feather duster

Richard comes out with a warm welcome

I love the inside of the home. Check out the inside of the thatched roof!

Water levels on the pond are way down but there are still some birds

Quite a few "African Sacred Ibis" taking advantage of the low water levels

Thanks Richard for a great stay!

A group of riders entering Oudtshoorn as I leave. Undoubtedly picking up some feather dusters.

The "other" suburbs of Oudtshoorn (I found this dichotomy uncomfortable when we were here last time too)

Passing by an ostrich farm

Crossing the Swartberg Mountains via Meiringspoort

Well, it says there is a waterfall...

Nice hike to the falls

Umm, doesn't a waterfall need actual, you know, water? The drought has not been kind.

Entering the next province

Pulling into the Victoria Oaks Guesthouse

January 20: Victoria West to Kimberley

It was an easy ride, crossing the Great Karoo, to Kimberley. The GPS can sure be a nice tool. As I was approaching Britstown, I looked for a coffee shop. The GPS found The Old Mill off main street. I never would have seen it riding through on the main drag. And it was a cozy little local coffee shop too, with eclectic decorations and a not half bad cappuccino (I am a firm believer that the only really good cappuccinos are found at the top of a mountain pass in Italy). I arrived early enough in Kimberley to walk over to the Big Hole. I had booked myself into the historic Kimberley Club hotel, but I didn't know quite how historic until I was at the diamond museum and saw the club mentioned in an article about Cecil Rhodes. Apparently, Cecil Rhodes was a founding member of the club and had a hand in building the club. Rhodes of course had an outsized influence on Southern Africa as a diamond tycoon (starting De Beers), as prime minister of the Cape Colony and founding Rhodesia (now Zambia and Zimbabwe). As seems to be the pattern of all colonizers, whether it be in Canada or New Zealand, he also did some evil things, such as expropriating land from black Africans and effectively barring them from voting. But, the Big Hole you ask. What's that all about? It's the diamond mine at the centre of New Rush, now Kimberley. It's the largest hand-dug hole in the world. In the search for diamonds, miners dug to a depth of 215 metres. The mine produced over 2,700 kg of diamonds between discovery in 1871 and ceasing operations in 1914.