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Flying over Kananaskis Country, west of Calgary
Roman picked us up and drove us to the warehouse where the motorbikes were ready for pick up
First ride in Australia is on the back of Doug's bike to get oil
Checking the transmission oil. It's good!
I am 1.93 metres tall, so I have been warned
Setting off from our AirBnB in Carindale
The Big Lap sticker applied, let's go!
Breakfast with a view
Good morning Rockhampton!
Breakfast on the deck of my cabin at Tasman Holiday Park
Delicious but expensive
Updating the website at a local cafe
Friday had us boarding a large catamaran for the two-hour ride out to the Great Barrier Reef. The seas were quite rough, and I was glad to have brought along some seasick pills as we pounded our way out in open water. We tied up at a large viewing platform and promptly went out in a semi-submersible (a glass bottom boat really) for a tour of the surrounding reef. The colours weren’t as vibrant as I was expecting but we were told this was normal. While this was interesting, I couldn’t help feeling that it was just like being at the aquarium where the fish were on the other side of the glass. After lunch aboard the platform, it was time for the highlight of the trip. Getting into the one-piece lycra suit! The suit protected from stingers (though not in season) as well as from the powerful, tropical sun. When I plunged into the ocean, I was immediately surrounded by fish. I swam away from the platform that was anchored on a sandy section of sea bottom and over to the reef. Wow, it was magical, every turn had fish that I had only seen in an aquarium. Then a Green Turtle swam by. We had three hours at the platform before having to board the cat for the two-hour ride back to Cairns. At the wharf I could see Dundee’s restaurant and thought that it was about time I had some Australian food. The Kangaroo Loin was tender and quite tasty. The perfect end to a great day.The Cairns Art Gallery is housed in three restored government buildings
Heading north on the Captain Cook Highway
Tracks for Brisbane to Cairns
Leaving Cairns
Heading out for a day trip out of Atherton
Leaving Atherton on the Savannah Way
Leaving Croydon early Wednesday morning
Good morning Mount Isa!
Good morning! Leaving Tennant Creek after a cappuccino.
Good morning Alice Springs!
A morning ride around Uluru
GPS tracks for the ride from Cairns to Uluru
Uluru sticker applied. Each sticker tells a story and brings back memories for me.
Good morning Alice Springs!
Back to the intersection where we came from Mt. Isa. A 2000 km side trip to Uluru
Good morning Mataranka!
Good morning Darwin!
Nice trails in the park for a morning walk
GPS tracks from Uluru to Darwin
Leaving Darwin: Let's go!
Starting the day right, with a scone at Salty Gecko
Good morning Kununurra! Looks like it could be a warm ride with it feeling like 31 degrees at 7:30 AM.
Good morning from the Fitzroy River Lodge!
Departure from Broome
Out for a morning walk from the caravan park
Leaving Karratha
Home / A Lap of Australia | 2026
A Lap of Australia | 2026
After our planned retirement in 2021, Audrey and I had planned to spend a year riding around New Zealand and Australia. Of course that all changed in 2020 when Audrey passed away, just eight months shy of retirement. Now it is time to make that trip a reality. In 2025 I had purchased (and sold) a bike in New Zealand so that was the most logical choice for Australia as well. I guess logical never came up in my mind. At the end of 2025 I rode my R1200GSA from Munich to Dakar and then the same bike from Cape Town to Uganda and back to Cape Town. The "logical" thing to do then was to ship that bike to Australia. I mean it was half way there already. I had a look at the Australian climate and based on the temperatures I decided that starting in Brisbane at the end of August (winter) and then heading to the hottest parts of Australia (Alice Springs and Darwin) made sense. After a lap I would then end up in the coldest part of Australia (Tazmania) at the end of spring and then finish the lap back in Brisbane in December.
Chapter 1: Arrival in Brisbane
Tuesday, August 25 to Thursday, August 27 - YYC to BNE via YVR
What a great start to the adventure! It was a pleasant flight from Calgary to Vancouver, with nice views over the Rocky Mountains. After the layover it was another 14+ hours crossing the Pacific. The cabin crew had the lights dimmed for about 11 of those hours so it was nice to pretend to sleep. With so much pre-trip planning involving how strict Australia is about entry requirements (for both me and the bike) it was rather a shock how easy it was to enter. First a machine scanned my passport and then I went through a gate where another machine took my photo, all of 30 seconds later I was in Australia. Iulia and Doug greeted me at the exit where we took an Uber to our AirBnB. After I freshened up we walked down to a pie shop for second breakfast and then decided to take a bus downtown. Bus rides are only 50 cents per journey! We stopped off at the Department of Transport to ask what we needed to do in order to properly insure the motorcycles. It turns out that since we are on a Carnet des Passages we shouldn’t need to do anything, just buy the insurance. OK, we'll see how that goes tomorrow. Then to the Botanical Garden downtown for a wander along the Brisbane River and through the gardens. It was fun seeing animals that I would only normally see in a zoo just wandering around. What could be better than a catamaran cruise on the river for recovering from jet lag? Well, the ticket scanner could be broken so that you don’t have to pay the 50-cent fare (part of the public transit system). After our cruise (where a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen would have been a good idea) we popped into a cafe in the Rainforest Garden for a late lunch. A little more walking downtown and then it was time to catch the bus home. I managed to stay awake to about 8:00 and then collapsed into bed. What a fantastic first day!Flying over Kananaskis Country, west of Calgary
That's a lot of ocean between Vancouver and Brisbane and not a lot of land
Welcomed by Iulia and Doug in Brisbane
Winter isn't too bad
Truth in Advertising
Steak, bacon and cheese pie with a double espresso for second breakfast (the first was on the plane at 4:00 AM)
Let's head downtown!
Chinese Hibiscus
Kookaburra
An Australian White Ibis wandering through the gardens
The Queensland Bottle Tree looks like a Bonsai version of a Baobab
Dusky Moorhen
Cool! An Australian Water Dragon!
Let's go for a cruise on the CityCat up the Brisbane River
Is there a better cure for jet lag? I think not.
The Australian flag with a red background is for merchant vessels (the blue flag is the normal flag)
Under the Kangaroo Point Bridge
Back at the AirBnB this Cockatoo reminded me of visitors at my home when they see a deer or squirrel. I was out snapping pictures while the neighbours looked bemused. (No, I didn’t feed it the biscuit it is eating)
Rainbow Lorikeets in the backyard
Friday, August 28 - Brisbane
I love days like this, where you have a real sense of accomplishment. First up was trying to get the Compulsory Third Party (CTP) liability insurance. This can be quite challenging to obtain for foreign riders on foreign bikes. Fortunately, the day before we had gone to the Department of Transport to confirm that we didn’t need to register the bikes in Australia since we have the Carnet des Passages en Duane. So at least we had some information as we called several insurance companies. Finally, we got through to someone in the CTP section of Allianz who was able to help us. It took a while but we both have the mandatory insurance now. And at only $220 for six months, it wasn’t terribly expensive. Note that it only covers if I injure someone, it doesn’t cover property damage. I guess I better not run into too many Ferraris. After printing the insurance document out at the local library, we got picked up by Roman of Bikes Abroad. He took us to the port where our bikes were in a warehouse, and we started the process of putting them back together. Since my gas tank had been purged for the flight from Cape Town, Roman popped over to the nearest gas station and filled a 3-litre Jerry can for me to start the bike. It took a couple of tries to prime the fuel pump but then the bike fired up. To the loudest knocking and rattling I have ever heard. Thinking that the oil just needed to pressurize and the fuel pump was noisy from being dry I rode down the driveway. The oil pressure light was flickering so I turned off the engine and looked at the sight glass. No f#*king oil!!! I couldn’t believe it, why didn’t they tell me they were going to purge the oil too? Doug gave me a lift to the gas station (obviously very keen on carrying a 115 kg passenger for his first ride in Australia) where I picked up a big jug of 20W50. Thankfully the bike was much, much quieter the second time I fired it up. I sure hope that didn’t cause any permanent damage. We rode back to the gas station, and I filled up my bike. The Adventure has a 33-litre gas tank. Considering Roman had already put in 3 litres I was a bit surprised to find I had put in 35 litres of Premium at the pump. For a total of 38 litres?!? The ride back to the AirBnB was, thankfully, uneventful. I was riding in Australia!!!Roman picked us up and drove us to the warehouse where the motorbikes were ready for pick up
All the safety gear on, let's go!
Hello! It's been a few months since I saw you in Africa
Pretty happy about it too
Installing the windshield is the trickiest part
In the meantime Roman has picked up 3 litres of gas
That doesn't sound good
First ride in Australia is on the back of Doug's bike to get oil
5 L jug of oil is $27 cheaper than 4 individual 1 L containters
Reset the GPS and let's ride!
I'm riding in Australia!
At the gas station. Again. This time for gas.
35 litres? Into a tank that is supposed to hold 33 litres and already has 3 litres in it.
The rest of the ride back to the AirBnB is uneventful
We'll have a thorough look at the bikes in the morning to make sure there was nothing else amiss
Saturday, August 29 to Sunday, August 30
Well, that was a lovely weekend. We picked the bikes up at the Port of Brisbane on Friday and you'll recall that the engine oil had been purged from my bike. Saturday then was spent doing a good inspection of the bike, ensuring nothing else untoward had happened. First up was confirming that the transmission oil hadn’t been drained too. Apparently, transmission oil must not be considered dangerous (like engine oil) as that was still there. The bike was steam cleaned after I had dropped it off (I had done a complete disassembly cleaning in Cape Town, but the shipping company insisted a steam cleaning was prudent when shipping to Australia). But the insides of the saddlebags were damp (I assume the pressure got past the seals) and so were the contents. For most items it was a simple matter of drying them out but the tankbag had become a mould farm and needed a good scrubbing with hot, soapy water. Sunday was the fun day of the weekend as we headed off to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. Yes, dozens of cute koalas were hanging about, munching on eucalyptus leaves. There were also a few other animals indigenous to Australia that I wanted to see since I probably wouldn’t see them in the wild, like the incredibly cute platypus and the Tasmanian devil. There was a kangaroo feeding area (like a petting zoo) with the laziest kangaroos imaginable laying around waiting for someone to feed them. A cute Swamp Wallaby earned his keep with our snack treats mainly by being awake. After the Koala Sanctuary we Ubered over to the Brisbane Botanical Gardens at Mount Coot-Tha. A stroll through the Australian Rainforest led us to a steep track that took us to the summit viewpoint and restaurant on Mount Coot-Tha. Dinner while enjoying the sunset over Brisbane was a great end to our fun day.Checking the transmission oil. It's good!
A fun fair at the Belmont School near our AirBnB
Good old Tilt-a-Whirl is alive and well in Australia
Nice to not be the tallest person around for a change
The platypus was in a dark aquarium so photos didn't turn out. Trust me, it was cute!
A Tasmanian Devil!
The wombat looks pretty sturdy (and cute). Wouldn't want to hit one on the road.
The Southern Cassowary looks vaguely like a dinosaur
Lazy kangaroos looking for handouts
Nap time
OK, the swamp wallaby is pretty darn cute (and not sleeping)
He deserves a treat
The Australian Rainforest in the Brisbane Botanical Garden at Mount Coot-Tha
We thought this was a viewing tower. But no, it is a vent for the automobile tunnel underneath the mountain
Rainbow Lorikeets in the garden
What a lovely view of Brisbane from Mount Coot-Tha (and the Brisbane River on the right)
Good night Brisbane
Monday, August 31 to Tuesday, September 1
Monday was another day of doing some bike prep for the upcoming Big Lap. The only thing of note that happened is when I set off seismograph alerts in the greater Brisbane area after banging my head on a beam in the garage. Tuesday was an altogether more pleasant day. It started with meeting up with a former colleague at the West Village shopping district. The district was revitalized from a former ice cream factory and filled with trendy shops and restaurants. I met Meera Kopp at a restaurant called Picnic, a brunch place. The Singapore Kaya French Toast was amazing. It was such a pleasure getting caught up and hearing of how her family moved to Brisbane 1.5 years ago. An hour or two later (time flies!) I walked about 15 minutes to Southbank and the Queensland Museum. It was certainly a nice enough museum but perhaps not what I was looking for. There were interesting exhibits on ceramics, dinosaurs, stuffed animals and a special exhibit on crocodiles but not much on the history of Brisbane, Australia or First Nations. There are a few museums and galleries in Brisbane so maybe I just need to find the right one. Next to the museum was the Queensland Art Gallery which I really enjoyed and spent quite a bit of time exploring. After a full day it was time to hop back on the bus (still 50 cents) for the ride home to the AirBnB in Carindale.I am 1.93 metres tall, so I have been warned
I think I may have bent a beam
The original ice cream factory
Turned into an area of trendy shops and restaurants
I still feel this ibis should be in a zoo, not just wandering around
Meeting up with Meera, a former colleague, for a lovely chat
Good to know, stay away from the horses
Goodbye downtown Brisbane, see you in December
Wednesday, September 2
One last shakedown cruise before departure tomorrow! The bikes seemed to be all set for departure, so we decided to go for a bit of a shakedown cruise on Wednesday. First, up a nice twisty road to Mt. Gravatt Lookout. There sure were a lot of signs warning to watch out for koalas on the road, so it was a bit of a disappointment to not see any. The bikes were riding nicely up the twisty road so after admiring the view, we rode out to Cleveland Point on the ocean for lunch. A delicious seafood chowder with a glorious view was just perfect. The mirror on Doug's bike had come loose on the ride over but that was the only casualty of the shakedown ride. Ready to start the Big Lap tomorrow!Setting off from our AirBnB in Carindale
Lots of signs for koalas but alas none were spotted
Heading to Cleveland Point
The Old Cleveland Lighthouse
The Lighthouse Restaurant has a prime location
Delicious sea food chowder with a view
Chapter 2: Start of the Big Lap
Chapter 2: Start of the Big Lap - Brisbane to Cairns
Thursday, September 3
The trip has started! Doug and I left our AirBnB in Carindale on Thursday morning and headed north on the M1 motorway. We wanted to clear greater Brisbane and get up to Coolum Beach so that we could meet Carol-Ann and Ken Duval for lunch. 120 kilometres of motorway later we pulled into Sunshine Coast and rode along the coast to the Coolum Surf Club where Carol was waiting for us outside. Carol and Ken have done some amazing “Round The World” travels on their R80G/S so you can imagine there were lots of great stories told over lunch. The Surf Club has a spectacular view over the beach and we were lucky enough to see a few whales breaching as they started their journey south to Antarctica for the summer. After we got some great tips for places to see on our ride north towards Cairns, Doug and I took smaller roads along the coast before rejoining the motorway at the Traverston Service Centre. The service centre is the home of Matilda, the 13 metre tall kangaroo that was part of the 1982 Commonwealth opening ceremonies. The motorway ended past Gympie and then it was a couple of hours to Gayndah where we had a motel booked. The smaller roads were nice (though it had warmed up to 32° when we turned inland) and it was a pleasant ride. It was a bit surprising that we arrived about ten minutes before sunset (at 5:37 PM) so that is something to keep in mind for the next month or so as we definitely do not want to ride after dark.The Big Lap sticker applied, let's go!
Doug locks up the house
We are off!
North towards Cairns
Motorway to get out of Brisbane
Meeting up with the Duvals at the Coolum Surf Club
What a spectacular spot
Great conversation over a delicious lunch
Off the motorway and taking some smaller roads
Meet Matilda, Australia's largest kangaroo
Brush fires in the distance
The best 1.2 kilometres of the trip so far
The shadows get long awfully early
Home for the night at the Country Roads Inn
Friday, September 4
Another beautiful ride in Australia! We had a tip that there was an amazing fish & chip place in Bundaberg so from Gayndah we made our way back to the coast. This wasn’t a main travel corridor so we had the opportunity to ride on small, one lane country roads. It was amazing that it felt so remote yet we were only an hour or two from the populated (and touristy) coast. We arrived at Grunske's just before lunch time and managed to get a table with a lovely view of the Burnett River. The fish (snapper) and chips was delicious and well worth the detour from our original route. As a bonus I was able to enjoy a Bundaberg ginger beer in Bundaberg. On to Rockhampton after lunch where we had booked a boutique hotel. The Denison Boutique Hotel was part of the railway history of the town but we didn’t realize how much so until the freight train running down the middle of the street (like a tram in other cities might) blew its whistle for the crossing next to the hotel. It could be a long night.Breakfast with a view
Doug leaving Gayndah
Small country roads
The occasional one lane bridge
Popular restaurant right on the Burnett River
The Burnett River
Worth the detour
35° so its important to take breaks and hydrate
Could this be a motorcycle passing lane? Probably not...
The last hour (4:30 to 5:30) is riding into the setting sun
Arrive at our boutique hotel just as the sun sets
Fancy
Saturday and Sunday, September 5 & 6
What a nice weekend. We left Rockhampton on Saturday morning for the longish ride of almost 500 kilometres to Airlie Beach. But since it was mostly near the coast the temperatures were very pleasant, making the ride much easier. We arrived at the Tasman Holiday Park, where we had cabins booked, just before sunset. At the entrance was a Thai food truck! I love Thai food so it was nice not having to go out to find a place to eat. We booked a Whitsunday Island half-day cruise online and the next morning walked down to the Port of Airlie. The big catamaran left at 11:30 and after a couple of stops plus a transfer we arrived at Whitehaven Beach just before 2:00 PM. Whitehaven Beach is rated as one of the best beaches in Australia (if not the world) and is famous for its pure silica sand and turquoise waters. We disembarked from the cat and onto a landing craft that beached itself on shore. Our first experience was jumping into the ankle-deep crystal-clear waters for the short wade to shore. 7 kilometres of the softest, powdery sand lay before us. Cruise Whitsundays had a shelter set up where you could have an Australian sausage. After the sausage snack, Doug and I walked down the beach, strolling in the clear water watching small fish dart close to shore. Not really being sit-on-the-beach kind of people, we elected to go for a hike up to a viewpoint overlooking the beach and the other side of the island. It was less than a kilometre, but it was mostly stairs so we had a good workout. Fortunately, the hike was under the tree canopy and the temperature was in the mid-twenties, perfect hiking conditions really. And the view was worth it. We returned to the beach and relaxed for a few more minutes before boarding our catamaran and enjoying the two-hour cruise back to Airlie Beach, arriving at sunset, and then the 20-minute walk to the holiday park. Today's food truck was spiral, deep-fried potatoes (much less healthy and not as tasty as Thai if you ask me) but he had a plate of nachos with chilli con carne available.Good morning Rockhampton!
Unfortunately, no live kangaroos yet
Lots of rest areas along the road and plenty of reminders to take a break
Sugar cane fields and sugar refineries
My cabin at the Tasman Holiday Park
Thai food for supper!
Boarding the big catamaran
Oh my, that looks spectacular
Aboard the landing craft
Then wade ashore
An Australian welcome sausage
Pure white powdery sand
Fishes in the crystal clear waters near shore
Enough beach time, let's hike!
Made it to the top
Wow, 7 kilometres of perfect beach
Heading back to Airlie Beach
They look to be heeled over a ways
Good night from the Whitsundays
Monday, September 7
A relatively short ride from Airlie Beach to Townsville on Monday meant that we could afford to take a few leisurely breaks. Our first stop was at The Big Mango. After seeing Matilda, the biggest kangaroo in Australia (and presumably then the world?), and now the Big Mango I am starting to think I need to do a bit of research on all the Big Things to see in Australia. Your suggestions are welcome. Lots of sugar cane plantations along the ride today with lots of fertile farmland. We arrived in Townsville and checked into the Palmerston Collective. At the front desk was a plate of delicious chewy cookies which I promptly enjoyed. I told the desk clerk that these would be perfect with an ice cold glass of milk. She then gave us a voucher for a drink at the bar where I promptly ordered a glass of milk (and grabbed another cookie). What a great welcome! After freshening up, Doug and I walked into town, past beautiful 19th century buildings to the Strand. We were there at around sunset and the esplanade was busy with people enjoying a stroll and even more people out for a run. Despite passing many fine restaurants we ended up back at the hotel for dinner. As we were sitting there the front desk clerk came by and handed me a couple of cookies and an ice-cold glass of milk, wishing me a good night.Breakfast on the deck of my cabin at Tasman Holiday Park
Well, that's... interesting
Sheep dogs heading off to work?
Passing through sugar cane plantations
Harvest time
Now that's a mango!
Perfect snacks
Coffee break in Bowen
A tour around Bowen reveals a lovely seaside
Plenty of farm fields
The Burdekin Bridge, one of the longest multi-span bridges in Australia
Brush fires seem quite common. Maybe prescribed burning?
Our hotel is in the Palmer Street Precinct in Townsville
Out for a stroll
Graffiti as art
Gorgeous 19th Century architecture
Waterfalls tucked away
Along the Strand
Ocean Siren
Milk and cookies before bed
Tuesday, September 8
We have reached our first major destination on the Big Lap, Cairns. I usually have granola for breakfast but thought I would have the hotel breakfast today. While it was delicious, $42 was a bit more than I was wanting to spend so I will be sticking with granola in the future. On the road, we left Townsville for another easy ride, with only 350 km to go to Cairns. Again, we passed by large sugar cane fields and the occasional banana plantation. Tea and scones were delicious at a florist/cafe in Ingham. As we rode further north the humidity seemed to increase so that it was sweaty in the motorcycle suit even though the temperature wasn’t very high. We stopped at an information booth in Babinda and chatted with the friendly woman there. She said that they normally get about 4 metres of rain per year, sometimes as much as 7 metres. We were entering the tropical rainforest of northern Queensland. Calgary gets about 500 mm (combined rain and snow) so that explains why it was feeling a bit humid. After doing a spot of laundry at the hotel in Cairns I went for a stroll down to the Promenade. Wow, did it feel different from the Esplanade in Townsville. In Townsville it was mostly locals out for a walk or run. Here it seemed to be almost entirely tourists. We are here for a couple of nights and then are planning to head up to Port Douglas for a little quieter experience and to organize a Great Barrier Reef tour.Delicious but expensive
Good morning Townsville!
This couple on a Harley are set for some camping
Lots of rest areas and reminders to use them
Doug rolls into Ingham
Pumpkin scone and a pot of Earl Grey tea, yum
Banana plantations as we head further north into the tropical rainforest
Along the promanade in Cairns
Good night from Cairns
Wednesday, September 9
A day “off” in Cairns. In the morning I spent some time updating the website. The afternoon was spent at the fascinating Cairns Aquarium and in the evening there was a special treat in store. I was invited over to Patrick and Belinda Peck's house to meet Isabel and Carl Abrams and Uta Gerlach. World travellers all. Our common connection was through Ken and Carol-Ann Duval as well as Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travel. What a great evening swapping stories!Updating the website at a local cafe
Welcome to the Cairns Aquarium
Hmmm, what's that creature on the right?
The Shark Tunnel
The Citizens Gateway to the Great Barrier Reef symbolises the continuum of life on the Great Barrier Reef
World Travellers Meeting! Patrick, Carl, Uta, Isabel, Ekke and Belinda on the floor
Thursday and Friday, September 10 and 11
Thursday our plan was to go to the Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre on a daytrip and then book a half-day Great Barrier Reef tour. But the tours for the cultural centre were already booked for the day and the options for a reef tour were also very limited. We juggled our plans around a bit and arranged a reef snorkelling tour for Friday and booked the cultural tour for Saturday. After confirming with the hotel that we could stay an extra couple of days we then had some free time in the afternoon. I popped down to the Cairns Art Gallery, housed in a beautifully restored 1936 government building. The main exhibition was Brush: Women Painters, which featured paintings by indigenous women and their powerful stories.Friday had us boarding a large catamaran for the two-hour ride out to the Great Barrier Reef. The seas were quite rough, and I was glad to have brought along some seasick pills as we pounded our way out in open water. We tied up at a large viewing platform and promptly went out in a semi-submersible (a glass bottom boat really) for a tour of the surrounding reef. The colours weren’t as vibrant as I was expecting but we were told this was normal. While this was interesting, I couldn’t help feeling that it was just like being at the aquarium where the fish were on the other side of the glass. After lunch aboard the platform, it was time for the highlight of the trip. Getting into the one-piece lycra suit! The suit protected from stingers (though not in season) as well as from the powerful, tropical sun. When I plunged into the ocean, I was immediately surrounded by fish. I swam away from the platform that was anchored on a sandy section of sea bottom and over to the reef. Wow, it was magical, every turn had fish that I had only seen in an aquarium. Then a Green Turtle swam by. We had three hours at the platform before having to board the cat for the two-hour ride back to Cairns. At the wharf I could see Dundee’s restaurant and thought that it was about time I had some Australian food. The Kangaroo Loin was tender and quite tasty. The perfect end to a great day.
The Cairns Art Gallery is housed in three restored government buildings
The main entrance
A modern art section
The main exhibition featured women indigenous painters
First Nations people used fire to control the forests and manage animals as depicted in this Samantha Hobson painting
The big catamaran ready to take us out to the Great Barrier Reef
Let's go!
A green turtle swims by
Kangaroo loin for supper at Dundee's
Saturday, September 12
We had decided to visit the Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre as a daytrip out of Cairns (rather than continuing on to Atherton) so that we could have the saddlebags empty to put our motorcycle gear in while on the 1.5-hour walk. We left Cairns early enough that we would make it to Mossman Gorge well before our scheduled 11:00 walk. It was about 75 kilometres up the Captain Cook Highway with the occasional spit of rain. It was a glorious road, dancing along the coastline, interrupted only by a few construction zones. The road was being rebuilt after Cyclone Jasper, a Category 5 cyclone that struck in December of 2023. We arrived well before the walk and had time for a tea in the café. We met our guide, Damian, at the shuttle bus and took a short ride up to the trailhead where we were treated to a damper (like a biscuit) and tea before a smudging ceremony. How interesting that a smudging ceremony is also part of First Nations culture in Canada. Then we followed Damian into the rainforest where the first stop was to show us a Gympie-Gympie plant. The stinging tree (also known as the suicide plant) is famous for its extremely painful and long-lasting sting, leaving victims suffering for weeks or even months. For the rest of the walk, I avoided touching any plant at all. Damian had so much interesting information that it is difficult to recall it all. It ranged from “burying” the dead inside trees to how the traditional boomerang came from the interior, but the coastal people also had a boomerang, though it didn’t return. He also “painted” his forearm with clay, ochre and charcoal to tell his story. It was an absolutely fascinating walk and I would highly recommend it if you are in the area. From Mossman Gorge we rode into Port Douglas for lunch. I had a hankering for a meat pie and we stumbled across Mocka’s. It had been a busy day by the time we arrived and there wasn’t much selection. Fortunately, they did have a kangaroo pie. Yummy. Back along the Captain Cook Highway for our last night in Cairns. Tomorrow, we turn west and start our journey into the interior.Heading north on the Captain Cook Highway
Always teasing with the signs. Still no wild kangaroos.
Lovely coastal ride
Excellent! You know it is going to be a great road when...
Rex Viewpoint on a grey, cloudy day
Road repairs after Cyclone Jasper of 2023
Damian introduces us to the smudging ceremony
Walking through the smoke for the smudging ceremony
Our first stop is at a Gympie-Gympie plant (so painful that it has earned the name of suicide plant)
Damian holds up the boomerang from the interior, in his other hand is the local version.
Using white clay as a base for painting his forearm
The orange delineates the homeland between the two rivers
The finished work tells his story
We have a guest joining us for ice cream
Great pies at Mocka's in Port Douglas
Kangaroo last night and kangaroo again for lunch
Heading back to Cairns
Doug enjoys a break at one of the many construction zones
Tracks for Brisbane to Cairns
Chapter 3: To the Interior - Cairns to Alice Springs
Chapter 3: To the Interior - Uluru!
Sunday, September 13
After a lovely time in Cairns, it was time to start the journey to the interior. On Sunday we rode to Atherton on the Tablelands. We first went north a little way, retracing our steps to Port Douglas, and then turned up into the hills. The road climbed quickly while the temperature dropped. Approaching Mareeba there were a few billboards for The Coffee Works and their coffee and chocolate. As it was cool and wet (we had put on our rain gear) I was hoping for a warm drink but they had me at chocolate. I ordered the coffee and chocolate and when I received my drink I had to ask for instructions. I was to dissolve a cube of chocolate in the hot milk and then add the espresso. That was the best mocha ever! We rode past Atherton so that we could experience what has now become my favourite road in Australia. The Gillies Range Road crosses the Gillies Range back towards Cairns and came with an extra helping of curves. We rode right down to the bottom where we promptly turned around and rode right back up again. We stopped for lunch at the Lake Barrine Teahouse and then on to Atherton Tourist Park where we had a couple of cabins booked for two nights.Leaving Cairns
OK, koalas and kangaroos I can see. Reindeer?!?
Time for the waterproofs
Best mocha ever
Riding the Tablelands towards Atherton
My new favourite road in Australia
Woo hoo!
Until we're behind the hay wagon
Our cabins at the Atherton Tourist Park
Monday, September 14
Monday, I took a day trip looking for curvy roads, waterfalls and ice cream while Doug stayed at the park. While it was cool and wet all day, I had to go to the place where Mungalli ice cream was made. We had had it a couple of times already and when I saw that it was made near Atherton I had to go. I put together a loop over Herberton (an historic mining town), the Mount Hypipamee volcanic crater and the highest road in Queensland to the Mungalli Creek Dairy for lunch. The quiche was delicious and so was the ice cream for dessert. Then the waterfalls loop to visit the most beautiful falls on the Tablelands before returning to Atherton. Despite the cool, wet conditions it made for a lovely day. I really enjoyed riding by myself. So much so that when I got back home, I told Doug about it. We decided to try riding separately, starting tomorrow.Heading out for a day trip out of Atherton
Found the curvy roads!
To the Crater!
Mount Hypipamee Crater - 56 metres to the lake and then 76 metres further to the bottom of the lake
Loop back over Dinner Falls
Should this be on my list of Big Things in Australia?
Nice little road though
Mushroom, spinach and feta quiche is delicious
Of course, their famous ice cream for dessert
Thank you cows!
A damp ride home, the rain gear has been on and off throughout the day
The Big Barramundi for my collection of Big Things in Australia
Tuesday, September 15
After Monday's solo day trip, Doug and I decided to try riding separately and meeting up in the evening. There is always a bit more freedom when riding by yourself. Doug took off fairly early and I was an hour or two behind him when I left Atherton. It was still cloudy and moist when I left so I put on the rain gear to ride through the wet tropical rainforest. I rode a few of the same roads as on my day trip, through the forest and a few twisty bits. After about 50 kilometres I had descended from the Tablelands and it started to dry out and warm up, so off came the rain gear. Then it was about 400 kilometres of warm riding on straight roads to Croydon. It felt like I was getting more and more into the Outback.Leaving Atherton on the Savannah Way
Through Mount Hypipamee National Park (where I visited the crater yesterday)
I would hate to hit one of those
Three hours through the Outback to Croydon
Lots of kangaroo roadkill
Wow, 50 metres is awfully long
Sometimes the road narrowed to one lane
I didn't meet any oncoming road trains on these one-lane sections (thank goodness)
Road train!
Check in at the Croydon Club Hotel - the last remaining hotel from Croydon's 1887 gold rush
Sun sets at about 6:30 PM
Out for an after dinner walk and I meet my first real, live kangaroo!
Wednesday, September 16
Wednesday morning Doug again departed early, though this time I wasn’t as far behind. I chatted with Paul, also staying at the Croydon Club Hotel, who was riding his Indian in the same direction, towards Mount Isa. I left shortly after Paul. 150 kilometres to Normanton along the Savannah Way really felt like I was riding in the Outback now. The temperature was perfect for riding at about 25° and I even saw a few live kangaroos. Normanton is home to the famous Krys the Crocodile, the largest crocodile ever captured at 8.64 metres. The life size statue was certainly impressive. From Normanton it was straight south on the Matilda Way. After 9:30 the temperature started to rise and by the time I stopped at the Burke & Wills Roadhouse for fuel and lunch it was 32°. Doug was already there and almost ready to leave when Paul rolled in. I chatted with Paul for almost an hour and he was a veritable font of information having travelled here extensively, both for work and on the bike. We leapfrogged each other for the rest of the afternoon and met up again at the gas station in Mt. Isa. We might meet again tomorrow as we are both heading towards Tennant Creek. I met Doug at the Townview Hotel and we walked over to a famous spot overlooking Mt. Isa and its mines (copper, lead, zinc and silver). But the viewpoint was closed for renovation. A little bit of discussion and we decided to sneak through the fence to get to that iconic view, just as the sun was setting behind the giant smokestacks.Leaving Croydon early Wednesday morning
Trying to stay hydrated, I stopped at every rest area for a drink
Krys the Savannah Crocodile, 8.64 metres long!
Look out!
Also in Normanton, the Big Barramundi
Heading south from Normanton
It's going to be a lot of this
Burke and Wills were early European explorers
The iconic Mount Isa view over the mine
Thursday, September 17
I got on the road at about 8:00 on Thursday morning and on the Overlanders Way headed northwest out of town. It was cool in the morning and easy riding, catching up with Doug and Paul at the Caltex at Camooweal just as they were leaving. Then a short time later I crossed into the Northern Territory and changed my clocks back by half an hour. The landscape changed immediately. No more scrub, just flat grassland as far as the eye could see. Also, the speed limit went up to 130. With the lovely tail wind that speed was actually pretty comfortable. I caught up with the others at Barkly Homestead, a nice roadhouse, where I had a burger and fries for lunch. Why? That’s going to sit like a stone in my belly in the heat of the afternoon. More arrow straight roads and tailwind makes for easy riding to the Stuart Highway. Except for that burger. I turned south on the Stuart Highway, now having a crosswind, for 25 km to Tennant Creek. Where we had a cabin booked at the Outback Caravan Park. The cabin was tiny and felt more like a prison cell. When Doug and I walked to the IGA for supper supplies we noticed there were more aboriginal people here than in other places we had been. Strangely, the houses and businesses had large fences. Even our campground had an electric gate that was closed from 5:00 PM to 8:30 AM. It felt a bit like South Africa where security is ever present.Good morning Mount Isa!
Heading for Alice Springs
Doug leaves Camooweal
I have no idea why this kangaroo has bull's horns
Set your watches half an hour back
Isn't it convenient to have a map on your helmet?
Landscape has changed from scrub brush to grassland
The view from the cockpit today
Wrestling goannas at Barkly Roadhouse (done by the same artist as the Aboriginal Man in Aileron)
At Barkly Roadhouse. I haven't passed a four-trailer road train yet.
To the caravan park
Friday, September 18
With the cabin being rather unpleasant I decided not to have my usual cup of tea in the morning and bowl of granola. Let’s get on the road! I found a coffee shop in town and met Doug at the Bay Leaf Café for a cappuccino; I planned to have breakfast at the day use area at Devil’s Marbles an hour down the road. Doug and I rode together to the Marbles and were rather surprised to find three enormous tour buses parked in the day use area with a hundred high school kids on a field trip. OK, maybe breakfast will be a little later today. We did the 400 metre walk around the Marbles and it was really interesting how the granite was formed from molten lava and over time erosion created sandstone which then weathered away to reveal these granite boulders. Doug and I rode separately after that, as I stopped at the next available rest area for my picnic breakfast. Then it was arrow-straight roads all the way to Alice Springs. I stopped at a few interesting spots along the way, including the giant statues of an aboriginal man and of an aboriginal woman and child in Aileron. When doing the preparation for this trip I had assumed Uluru was near Alice Springs and I would just do a day trip out to the Big Red Rock. Not so. It is 440 kilometres from Alice Springs! Worse yet, there seems to be a monopoly on hotels in the area so even a “budget” hotel was $550 per night. Doug decided he didn’t need to spend that kind of money and ride an extra thousand kilometres to see the rock, so he will be staying in Alice Springs while I make the trip down there and back. With last night’s accommodation not being as pleasant as it could have been, Doug decided that a few nights at the Crowne Plaza (less than half the price of the budget hotel at Uluru) were in order.Good morning! Leaving Tennant Creek after a cappuccino.
Three tour buses full of high school kids using the day use area means no breakfast for me
Doug and I go for the 400 metre walk around the marbles
Arrow-straight roads
Arrow-straight railroad tracks to infinity
Finally, time for my picnic breakfast
The statues are on my list of Big Things in Australia
Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn southbound (though I left the tropics behind long ago)
Highest point along the Stuart Highway
What happens when Doug choses the hotel
Saturday, September 19
After my usual granola breakfast on Saturday morning, I left Doug at the Crowne Plaza and rode south from Alice Springs. It was reasonably cool in the morning, but it soon warmed up. As was the case for most of our ride through Australia, there were lots of rest areas. I made a point of stopping at most of them to hydrate and do a stretch. 200 kilometres south I came to the junction with the Lasseter Highway and the Erldunda Roadhouse. This was probably the nicest roadhouse of the trip so far and the chunky beef pie was delicious. (After enough of these can think of other things that will be chunky) Then it was 240 kilometres to the Outback Hotel where I checked in at about 3:30. After freshening up (needed after riding in a sunny 34°) I rode about 15 kilometres to Uluru. Coming around a corner and seeing the big red rock was amazing. I didn’t realize how large it is. The light about an hour before sunset was fabulous and I got lots of photos, though none of them capture the experience of being here. The road continued around Uluru, getting so close to the mountain that it was overwhelming. After riding around the mountain, I returned to the best spot for sunset viewing, getting a few photos as Uluru turned an amazing red.Good morning Alice Springs!
Lots of rest areas to hydrate and stretch
I know some of you have been worried that I haven't been getting enough Nutella
No, this is not the same photo as above. It all just looks the same.
Lunch at Erldunda Roadhouse, the chunky beef pie is delicious
Heading west on the Lasseter Highway
Check in at the Outback Hotel (my "budget" accommodation)
My first view. Wow.
It is simply overwhelming
Glorious as the sun sets
Good night from Uluru
Sunday, September 20
I was planning to do some hiking around Uluru on Sunday but wasn’t sure which walk to do. In a brochure I found out that the park offers a free, guided walk every day starting at 10:00 at the Mala Trail. I rode to the trailhead by doing a loop of Uluru again (counterclockwise this morning, clockwise last night). A group of about 30 people were at the meeting point, and our ranger guide was right on time. I guess I was expecting an aboriginal guide, but the ranger had lived here for 26 years, was intimately familiar with aboriginal history, culture and spoke the local dialect. You know how a good guide can make a place come alive? He was like that. I gained a true appreciation for the significance of Uluru and the role it played in aboriginal culture. Something I wouldn’t have gained if I had simply gone on a walk by myself, reading the signs at the sites. After the walk I rode back to the tourist village and bought a sandwich from IGA for lunch and then back to the Cultural Centre. The centre was interesting but the walk with the ranger had been much more engaging and informative. The late afternoon started to cloud over and by the time I rode back to the hotel it looked like it was threatening rain. After freshening up, I stepped out of my room to walk to the village centre for supper, and it was indeed raining. I grabbed my umbrella to fend off the light rain and walked up a hill for a view of Uluru. The rain subsided and I waited for sunset. The clouds had other plans, and the rock never achieved that gorgeous red glow I had seen yesterday. How lucky I was!A morning ride around Uluru
Meet at Mala Trail head
Our most excellent ranger guide
There were signs at the caves but the ranger really brought the stories to life
The teaching cave
In the Kitchen Cave
Grindstone on the right, on the left is another smoothly worn rock. This is from thousands of bums over thousands of years milling seeds and grains, sitting right there.
The black stain is from waterfalls (dry now)
When running these falls can be heard from kilometres away at the Cultural Centre
A pool of water at the base of the falls
On the ride back to the hotel
Wait, what? Is that rain?
At the last moment, the sun peeks through the clouds to give at least a taste of Uluru at sunset
I was tempted to go to this restaurant just based on the cool name
GPS tracks for the ride from Cairns to Uluru
Chapter 4: Return to the Tropics - Darwin
Chapter 4: Return to the Tropics - Darwin
Monday, September 21 - Uluru to Alice Springs
After applying the Uluru sticker to the saddlebag, it was time to retrace my steps, back north; destination Darwin. Heading east on the Lasseter Highway, leaving the Outback Hotel, I was pushing a bit of a headwind/crosswind from the southeast, but it wasn’t unpleasant. I stopped at the Erldunda Roadhouse again for fuel and a bite to eat. I tried the beef curry pie this time, but I liked the chunky beef pie from last time better. At this rate I know someone who is going to turn into a chunky piece of beef himself. Then a straight shot back up to Alice Springs, enjoying the tailwind, to meet Doug at the Crowne Plaza.Uluru sticker applied. Each sticker tells a story and brings back memories for me.
Leaving the Ayers Rock Resort
Lots of tourists come here and rent a car so this sign makes sense
Though most of the time it doesn't matter what side of the road you're on
The view from the cockpit on Monday
Back at the Crowne Plaza in Alice Springs
Tuesday, September 22 - Alice Springs to Tennant Creek
Tuesday morning it was again a lovely tailwind for the 500 kilometres to Tennant Creek, allowing for a nice cruising speed at the speed limit of 130. It warmed up to 36° in the afternoon, so I made sure to stop frequently to hydrate and enjoy a Nutella snack. I had initially thought of going for a walk around Devil's Marbles but not in full motorcycle gear at those temperatures, so I did a bit of a ride through instead. We had managed to book the Bluestone Motel (it was full on the way down and we had stayed at the caravan park) and it was quite lovely. Spacious, clean rooms and an onsite restaurant where the chicken, pumpkin and feta risotto was delicious. Doug, a very light eater, even joined me for dinner. Tomorrow, we head north on new roads, having essentially done a 2,000-kilometre side trip to see Uluru. Well worth it.Good morning Alice Springs!
Easy directions. I'm thinking I might not need a Navigator in the interior of Australia, not that many roads!
Better slow down for that corner
There are many flood sections throughout the Outback. When it rains the roads can become impassable.
The view from the cockpit on Tuesday
36.5 degrees, it's getting warmer
Lots of breaks to hydrate
Devil's Marbles - I was going to go for a walk but decided it was too hot for that
Back on the Stuart Highway, heading north
Wouldn't want to hit one of these guys
Arriving at the Bluestone Motor Inn
Laundry Day! OK, every day is laundry day when on the road, but it is nice to have the dryer so handy.
Doug enjoys a T-bone
Wednesday, September 23 - Tennant Creek to Mataranka
Wednesday's ride from Tennant Creek was another warm ride across the Outback. The scenery of the last few days has been very similar indeed. If I look back at my photos from the cockpit I couldn’t tell you where it was taken. I finally had an opportunity to overtake my first four-trailer road train! The sign on the back said that the four-trailer trains are a trial and the road train was 56 metres long. (I read this from my photo, not while passing!). Imagine for a moment you are standing at centre field on a Canadian football field. Beside you on the 55-yard line is the back of this road train. The cab of the truck would be well into the end zone! On one of my many hydration breaks, I stopped at a rest area that had a display on the telegraph line between Adelaide and Darwin. Near that spot the line from the south and the line from the north were connected (the last spike if you will). There was a sub-ocean line from Darwin so at that moment of connection, messages from Australia to Europe would take hours instead of weeks. What a monumental change. One more interesting stop before my destination in Mataranka was the famous Daly Waters Pub. The kind of place where everyone puts their stickers on the wall and there are bras hanging from the ceiling. Kind of like Ronnie's Sex Shop in South Africa, now a tourist destination. It was a great place to sit and sip a (ginger) beer. The caravan park in Mataranka is right beside the national park that has hot springs. As the air temperature was already at hot spring temperatures, I had no desire to jump in. Also, a sign warning of crocodiles was a bit of a deterrent to me but not to the families happily swimming in the stream. And of course, there were thousands and thousands of bats hanging from the palm trees. Quite an interesting spot this!Back to the intersection where we came from Mt. Isa. A 2000 km side trip to Uluru
The view from the cockpit on Wednesday
Stopped at a rest area where the telegraph line was completed
Imagine the changes this (almost) instantaneous communication brought
A truck more than half a football field long
Stopping off at the Daly Waters Pub
Nursing my (ginger) beer
It's getting warmer
Wetting down the buff helps
Still enjoying the dried mango from The Big Mango at Bowen on the east coast
This would dissuade me from going swimming
But not these families
All the trees had bats like this.
Live entertainment at the caravan park
Thursday, September 24 - Mataranka to Darwin
Thursday was a relatively short ride from Mataranka to Darwin. Since there was no Internet at the caravan park, Doug and I stopped at the roadhouse in Mataranka to book our Darwin accommodations before hitting the road. A hundred kilometres later I was passing through the town of Katherine when I thought it would be nice to stop for a break. I found the Salty Gecko cafe and perhaps the best scone this side of the Cotswolds. The scone came with jam and cream and the only improvement I could think of was that the cream should have been double clotted. Still, it was a welcome treat after riding across the Outback for the last few days. Then it was 300 kilometres up to Darwin. The whole way up from Uluru had become progressively warmer and ever so slowly the vegetation had changed. Outside Darwin it reached 38 degrees and the scrub brush had transformed to a sparse forest. Fortunately, Darwin was on the ocean and the temperature moderated a little (to 34 degrees) by the time I rode in to Cyclone Motorsports. I had made an appointment a couple of weeks ago to get new tires fitted and thought it would be a good idea to confirm the appointment. I'm glad I dropped by because my first choice for tires were unavailable when I called but were now in stock. My Michelin Anakee Adventures had been on since Nairobi, and after about 15,000 kilometres, a bent wheel in Zimbabwe and 4,000 kilometres burning across the Outback they were still looking good. So, I really wanted another set of them. I met Doug at the H on Mitchel Apartment Hotel just as he was checking in. After freshening up (and yes, after riding in 38-degree heat and increasing humidity I definitely needed freshening) we walked to an ice cream shop for a treat and then along the esplanade. It was nice to be back at the ocean after the time in the Outback.Good morning Mataranka!
Thursday's view from the cockpit looks a little bit different. Trees!
Best scone this side of the Cotswolds
The run into Darwin as the temperatures and humidity climb
Stopping off at Cyclone Motorcycles to confirm tomorrow's appointment for new tires
Darwin is a clean and modern city, aparently with an appreciation for art
A dusky moorhen enjoys a stroll along the esplanade
Back at the ocean after thousands of kilometres of Australian Outback
Friday, September 25 – Darwin
First thing Friday morning I rode to Cyclone Motorcycles to drop the bike off and get the new tires mounted. I pulled the bike up in front of the shop and got everything squared away then went outside to wait for my Uber. While I was waiting at the curb, the service agent came out to ride my bike around to the back of the building. He got on and discovered that his feet didn’t touch the ground. This made it a little tricky to pull the sidestand back up, but he managed and I jumped in my Uber back to the hotel. After lunch, Doug and I walked over to Crocosaurus Cove to check out the crocodiles and reptile exhibits. It was all very interesting, though neither of us opted to pay $200 to get in the “Cage of Death” that allowed you to get up close and personal with a giant croc. Doug said they couldn’t pay him $200 to do it, never mind paying for it. Then down in the display areas we could see someone had decided to do it and the giant beast swam around her. Cool from this side of the glass. Later came the crocodile feeding along with an interesting talk by one of the staff. Did you know that the Saltwater Crocodile has the strongest jaws in the world? While a human can exert pressure equivalent to 20 kg, a Saltie can exert up to 3,400 kg. After the Crocosaurus experience I took another Uber back to Cyclone Motorcycles to pick up the bike. Talking with the service agent he said that when he got around back, he couldn’t put the sidestand down and had to ask for help. Yes, I have the bike set up pretty high. The new Michelin Anakee Adventure 2 tires looked great and now I am ready for the next leg of the trip.Good morning Darwin!
All the way from Nairobi with 15,000 km on them. Could easily get a few thousand more I suspect.
Someone in the "Cage of Death"
It's Kiss the Croc Day!
Lunch time!
The new tire looks great, I hope it too lasts 15,000 km.
Good night Darwin
Saturday, September 26 – Darwin
When I woke up on Saturday morning and saw that the temperature was a very reasonable 25 degrees I decided to go for a brisk walk. At home I usually do a 5 k walk in the morning and I rather missed that. So down to the esplanade and onto the pathway. There were quite a few people out on the trails, either jogging or doing a brisk walk like me. I ended up going to the cruise ship terminal and back, for a distance of about 5 kilometres. Mind you, at home it wasn’t 80% humidity and 27 degrees first thing in the morning. A perfect time to use the laundry facilities in the apartment. I had washed my motorcycle jacket and pants the day before as they had seen some sweaty days recently. Doug and I had a chat about our planned route to Perth, a distance of about 4,000 kilometres with some long stretches of Outback that might be a bit of push for Doug’s bike’s range. After lunch in my apartment, I decided to walk to the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. A distance of almost four kilometres and by this time it was 33 degrees. I arrived at the museum hot and soaking wet. When I told the receptionist I had walked from downtown she just shook her head. A water fountain allowed me to rehydrate before going into the gallery. There were 64 pieces of Indigenous art displayed as part of the 2026 National Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art Awards. I love spending time in art galleries, especially with Indigenous art. The museum also had exhibits on the early “unruly” days of Darwin, the maritime history of Darwin and the devastating impacts of the 1974 Cyclone Tracy. When I walked into the museum café (I deserved a treat) someone was taking a photo of a delicious looking drink. I asked what it was and was told it was a special iced matcha for October. Too bad, I said, it looks delicious and I won’t be here in October. They made one especially for me. How nice. Fully refreshed I thought I’m not going to call an Uber to go back to the hotel, I might as well walk. Well, I certainly got my steps in today and certainly earned an ice cream at La Granita. Best gelato of the trip.Nice trails in the park for a morning walk
Even a bit of stair climbing
Australian White Ibis
Masked Lapwing
A gaggle of goosestepping Magpie Geese
Along Mindil Beach on the way to the museum
Toyota Painting
October's iced matcha and a slice of tiramisu
Well, I got my steps in today. I wonder if they count for more if it's hot and humid?
Well deserved indeed
GPS tracks from Uluru to Darwin
Chapter 5: The NW Corner: Darwin to Perth
Chapter 5: Around the NW Corner - Darwin to Perth
Sunday, September 27
Time to start the next leg of the Lap! On Sunday we left Darwin, heading in the direction of Perth. It will be about 4,000 kilometres of some relatively remote riding and we had to plan our logistics for accommodations and fuel stops. Our first stop was only 300 kilometres south in Katherine, where our route turned west, because the stop after that would have been a bit much all the way from Darwin. This gave me the opportunity to do a bit of a detour through Litchfield National Park, adding about 100 kilometres. While the main reason for visiting was the waterfalls, an added bonus for me was that it was a lovely curvy road. Nice sweepers, perfect for breaking in the new tires. Then I saw my first real, live kangaroo along the road! I had seen a few earlier near Croydon but this was the first one that stood still long enough for me to get a photo. Fantastic! Wangi Falls turned out to be a popular swimming hole. That would have been a lot of fun since it was 35° and I was cooking in the motorcycle gear. If I had known, I would have planned that a bit better with the swimming costume. Oh well, I enjoyed lunch and a mango “icy pole” at the cafe instead. After stopping off at a huge field of termite mounds I rode at a good pace back to the Stuart Highway and then turned south towards Katherine. I had hoped to make it to the Salty Gecko before they closed for a scone but missed by a few minutes. I guess I will hit them up tomorrow morning for breakfast. At least I got to see the Big Barramundi.Leaving Darwin: Let's go!
Lovely sweeping curves are perfect for breaking in the new tires
Hello! My first wild kangaroo to sit still long enough for a photo.
Lots of motorcycles were out enjoying a Sunday ride
A sign by the Wangi Falls swimming hole
How lovely does that look on a 36 degree day while in full motorcycle gear?
Perfect sweepers
A veritable city of termite mound skyscrapers
And along the road too
Back on the Stuart Highway with its road trains
The Big Baramundi in Katherine
Monday, September 28
Since I had arrived too late in Katherine on Sunday afternoon to go to the Salty Gecko for a scone, that was obviously the first order of business on Monday morning. It was a little strange that the coffee shop was staffed almost entirely by young people. People who all looked like they were pretty new at their job. When I asked for cream and sugar for my tea I received a blank stare. I found out later in the day that today was the first day of school holidays. Spring break if you will. Just like New Zealand, restaurants add a surcharge for holidays so they can pay their staff the overtime rate. (Also like New Zealand, there is no tipping here.) Properly fortified I hit the road westbound, riding through the same Outback scenery as I had coming up from Uluru. At Victoria River there was a nice change with a beautiful valley and escarpments. I gassed up and had a toastie in Timber Creek, where I met Roman, riding around Australia on an Africa Twin with sidecar and trailer. Another 200 kilometres down the road and I came to the border with Western Australia. I met Katerina, the friendly inspections agent, who made sure I wasn’t bringing any unauthorised food (e.g. fresh fruit) into the state. She asked if I would like some water. It was 36° and rather humid so obviously I said yes. I wasn’t prepared for my ice cold water to be delivered in a Halloween mug though. I think I might like Western Australia. It was less than 50 kilometres to Kununurra where, because of the 1.5 hour time change, I checked in at 1:45 PM. Doug checked in a little while later and we walked to a bakery since I had a hankering for a pie. But it turned out bakeries and cafés were closed because of the holidays (maybe difficulty getting staff?). Oh well, it was nice to jump into the hotel pool. I mean, not as nice as it would have been to jump into the Wangi Falls swimming hole but refreshing nevertheless. Dinner time saw the same problem with finding an open restaurant, so I ended up at a Subway. (Where they had a sign with the 15% surcharge). I don’t know why I thought it was a good idea to have not one, but two mochas with my sandwich. Maybe I thought it would help me stay awake past 8:00 PM in the new time zone. They certainly did that.Starting the day right, with a scone at Salty Gecko
Top up the tank before leaving Katherine
First service is quite a ways
The scavenger birds feasting on the kangaroo carcasses are quite dangerous as they fly up
The view from the cockpit
Taking a break at Victoria River
View of the Victoria River from the escarpment
My first boab! (A cousin of the African baobab)
Roman is riding his Africa Twin with sidecar and trailer to Melbourne, the long way
Set watch back 1.5 hours
Happy Haloween!
I hope it doesn't rain, there are so many floodways it seems easy to get trapped
Welcome to Kununurra
Even a pair of boab trees guarding the entrance to the hotel
Not quite Wangi Falls but refreshing nevertheless
Holiday surcharge. I'm OK with that.
Tuesday, September 29
You know it is going to be a hot ride when you see that the temperature feels like 31° at 7:30 AM. Tuesday's ride was going to be a long, hot one at 670 kilometres from Kununurra to Fitzroy Crossing so it was important to get an early start. Fortunately that was made easier by the time change since 7:30 felt like 9:00. Doug took full advantage of it and I heard his bike fire up at 5:30, just after sunrise. Soon I was cruising down the highway at 110. While in the Northern Territory the speed limit had been as high as 130, in Western Australia it was 110. The bike soon settled into the rhythm and I really enjoyed the isolation of the Outback. At a junction I debated whether or not I should take a 100 kilometre round trip detour to Wyndham where there was rumoured to be a 20 metre long crocodile statue. Surely it would be on my list of Big Things. But I still had a long way to go and it was only getting warmer, so stayed on the Savannah Way towards Warmun where I had a nice break at the roadhouse. At Halls Creek I stopped for fuel and thought I would have lunch. But the roadhouse didn't have a restaurant or any seating. Plus it was being terrorized by a pack of feral children (though it was kind of fun to see them rile up the shopkeeper and then run away laughing). I grabbed a drink and a wrap with the idea that I would stop at the next rest area. This turned out to be 118 kilometres further down the road. My wrap and chocolate milk would have cooked by then, so I pulled into a lay-by and stood in the shade of a tree for lunch. This section was also the longest section between petrol stations with 293 kilometres until Fitzroy Crossing. The temperature climbed steadily during the afternoon, reaching 39° briefly. Above about 37° I actually close the vents on my jacket and helmet. With the vents open, the hot air evaporates the sweat so quickly that it doesn’t have a chance to cool you down. I closed the vents until I felt damp with sweat and then opened them while standing up on the pegs. The air rushing through the jacket and helmet then provided a welcome cooling effect. Still it was nice to arrive at the Fitzroy River Lodge and jump into the pool!Good morning Kununurra! Looks like it could be a warm ride with it feeling like 31 degrees at 7:30 AM.
Would have been nice to detour to Wyndham
Yay, twisty road ahead!
OK, their definition of twisty road is a little different from mine
Beautiful scenery though
At the roadhouse in Warmun. Yes, of course I stocked up...
Good thing I stocked up
Even the rest areas are far apart
This rest area had some fun art work
I imagine during the wet season these signs are invaluable
The view from the cockpit
Giant termite mound at a lay-by
A termite mound city
Different termite mound shapes
Wow, beautiful scenery!
It's getting warm
All the vents (jacket and helmet) closed to retain the sweat
Welcome to the Fitzroy River Lodge
If that doesn't say "Pool!" I don't know what does
Good night from Fitzroy Crossing
Wednesday, September 30 – Fitzroy Crossing to Broome
Wednesday’s ride was only 400 kilometres from Fitzroy Crossing to Broome, but the heat always makes it seem longer. I took lots of breaks but even the rest areas were far apart. Fortunately, there were a couple of good roadhouses too. At the Warmun Roadhouse yesterday I picked up a fresh jar of Nutella, so I had no concerns using my remaining supply up. It’s nice to have a bit of that energy burst during the day. After checking into the hotel in Broome, Doug and I walked into town for an ice cream at the Kuld Creamery trailer. We explored the park and seaside (with its pearling history) and then tried to find downtown Broome. We were walking through a residential area and stopped to look at the map when a woman called over to us and asked if we needed help. I said we were looking for downtown. She said, hop in the car and I will drive you over, it isn’t far. It turns out Libby, now a healthcare worker, used to be a tour guide. On the way to the historic Chinatown, she gave us a bit of a tour and then dropped us off with a suggestion for the nicest route back to our hotel. Aren’t random acts of kindness the most amazing thing? Doug and I wandered around the area, discovering the “world's oldest operating picture gardens”, a barber shop and that there were no actual Chinese restaurants. So, after a haircut and Thai food we walked back to the hotel, before dark, along the route recommended by Libby.Good morning from the Fitzroy River Lodge!
Crossing the Fitzroy River
I am just imagining what this would look like in the Wet
Destination Broome today, Port Hedland tomorrow
The rest areas are far apart. I wonder what the Boab Tree stop looks like?
The view from the cockpit
At least the scenery has a bit of variety to it
Ah yes, the Boab Tree rest area
Let's celebrate with Nutella!
Willare Roadhouse
I've been to the places over my left shoulder and going to the places over my right shoulder
I wonder what it would be like here during the wet. Would it feel isolating?
One more stop before Broome
I don't think this croc is on my list of Big Things
The beach at Broome
This artwork commemorates the attack on Broome, 3 March 1942
Ice cream!
Visiting historic Chinatown after Libby gives
Cool, the world's oldest picture gardens!
No more unruly mop of hair!
Good night from Broome
Thursday, October 1 – Broome to Port Hedland
With more than 600 kilometres to go to Port Hedland from Broome and the hot weather, I tried to get on the road fairly early on Thursday. This is truly the Big Empty with only two roadhouses along the way. Doug and I have satellite communicators, and it feels good to have that safety net in case something goes wrong. The morning went well though I was happy to see the Sandfire Roadhouse. I stopped for an air-conditioned lunch just as Doug was leaving. I was already starting to fade, and I still had almost 300 kilometres to go. The afternoon got hot and despite stopping at every rest area, I was getting tired. The heat was really affecting me, I was yawning uncontrollably and my eyes were drooping shut. Stopping for water helped but later it happened again and I had to really shake myself out of it. It must be heat exhaustion. To be honest, I am glad I made it to Port Hedland safely. We had booked cabins at the caravan park, so I stopped at Woolworths to pick up supper supplies to cook before riding to the park. Our plan after Port Hedland was to do a short ride to Karratha tomorrow and then spend a couple of nights in Exmouth, a resort town. Well, remember I mentioned that it was school holidays? There was absolutely nothing available on Booking or Expedia in Exmouth. We booked the Comfort Inn in Karratha and thought we'll figure it out tomorrow.Departure from Broome
Sandfire and Pardoo are roadhouses, not actual towns. This feels really remote.
Whoa, a 60 metre long road train
Stop at every rest stop for water
The view from the cockpit
290 kilometres of stray animals?!?
That's getting pretty hot
Hydrate! Even when there is no rest area (shade)
The ocean is so close!
Walk on the beach at Port Hedland
Oh, oh. Nothing available
